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Glossary

This glossary gives you the meanings and details behind everyday gem and jewellery terminology. Please click on an alphabet letter below for the range of definitions.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

All Gemstone photos courtesy of Thaigem.com

A

ANNIVERSARIES

Modern Wedding Anniversary List

1st Pearl 15th Diamond
2nd Coral 16th Jade
3rd Turquoise 17th Emerald
4th Amber 18th Malachite
5th Diamond 19th Beryl
6th Sapphire 20th Diamond
7th Aquamarine 25th Silver
8th Amethyst 30th Diamond
9th Tourmaline 35th Pearl
10th Diamond 40th Ruby
11th Garnet 45th Sapphire
12th Citrine 50th Gold
13th Lapis 55th Emerald
14th Opal 60th Diamond

 

 

 

Audacious Alexandrite


Hardness: 8.5
Variety of : Chysoberyl
Found: Brazil, Sri Lanka, Zimbabwe, Tunduru, India, Burma, Madagascar and Tasmania

One of the most remarkable things about alexandrite is the way it changes colour under varying light sources. Green in natural light, red to purple to grey in artificial light - the more marked the transition in colour and the more vivid the shades, the more prized and expensive the stone.
An alexandrite of fine quality in a large size is scarcer than ruby, emerald or sapphire. The gem is rare because its creation requires the marriage of two different kinds of stone: one made from aluminum and beryllium, the other made of chrome. As conditions fostering such development during the Earth's formation were rear, the occurrence of alexandrite is very small.
Natural alexandrite is a member of the chrysoberyl family, a group of gems consisting of a colourless to yellow-toned chrysoberyl and a kind of cat's eye. While all chrysoberyl contains beryllium aluminum oxide, alexandrite also contains chrome, iron and titanium. It is the chrome to which alexandrite owes its unique ability to change colour. However, this is unusual. While chrome is known to give colour to many stones, only in alexandrite does it allow for a change of shades.
Fittingly, alexandrite derives its name from the Tsar of Russia, Alexander 11, who apparently celebrated his birthday on the same day that the gem was first discovered in 1830. In addition, alexandrite displays the same red and green that comprised the colours of Imperialist Russia's flag. Because of this, it is looked upon as a gem that brings good fortune to those who wear it.
Other mystical properties assigned to alexandrite are its alleged ability to sharpen intuition and intellect by imparting new knowledge and presenting new solutions. Alexandrite is also said to promote imagination and creativity in its wearers. It can boost their self-esteem and allow them to experience heightened joy. The stone is also said to help balance one's emotional state and enhance feelings of passion.
Healthwise, the gem is believed to be useful in helping to treat disorders of the pancreas, lymph nodes and spleen, as well as relieving the symptoms of leukemia.

 

Amethyst is said to help us connect to our spiritual selves!
Amethyst cures impatience, and alleviates feelings of victimization. Amethyst has a calming effect, balancing high energy, highly driven or highly creative people.

 

Allergic to Gold / Nickel?
Do you think you cannot wear gold jewellery because you develop an allergic reaction to it? Pure gold is a noble metal and as such is chemically stable. Problems associated with gold jewellery are usually due to the presence of the alloying metals i.e. nickel, silver, copper and zinc, interacting with the wearer's environment.

The most common cause of allergic reactions to jewellery is the presence of nickel. Nickel has frequently been used in white gold alloys because it is inexpensive, hard and has a strong whitening effect. Better quality white gold alloys are palladium, which has excellent properties, avoids the skin problems but is more expensive. A condition known as Nickel Allergy Contact Dermatitis (NACD) is on the increase due mainly to the increased popularity of body piercing. NACD is characterised by a range of skin symptoms from dryness, chapping and inflammation to eczema and blisters.

With the other alloying metals electrolysis can occur on moist salty skin surfaces. This certainly happens with copper, its ions stain the skin green. If silver in jewellery is oxidized or sulphides of these metals can also darken the skin. Obviously the wearer's environment can exacerbate these problems. Agents such as detergents, bleach, cosmetics, swimming pools, maritime environments should all be considered when endeavoring to understand a customer's problem. Generally complaints are more frequent with low gold content alloys, i.e. 9ct, and upgrading to a higher caratage usually solves all problems.

B

Birthstones

January
Garnet
February
Amethyst
March
Aquamarine
April
Diamond
May
Emerald
June
Pearl
July
Ruby
August
Peridot
September
Sapphire
October
Opal & Pink Tourmaline
November
Citrine
December
Tanzanite

 

The Modern Birthstone list is an official birthstone list from the American National Association of Jewellers adopted in 1912.

The Traditional Birthstone list of older birthstones is sometimes combined with the modern birthstone list reflecting the societal traditions, heralding.

The Mystical Birthstone list is of Tibetan origin from over a thousand years ago.

The Ayurvedic Birthstone list is from Ayurvedic Indian Medicine.

 

Alternative Birthstones

Birth Month
Birthstones
Modern
Birthstones
Traditional
Birthstones

Mystical
Birthstones

Ayurvedic
Birthstones
Other
Birthstones
January Garnet Garnet Emerald Garnet Rose Quartz
February Amethyst Amethyst Bloodstone Amethyst

Onyx,
Moonstone

March Aquamarine Bloodstone Jade Bloodstone Rock Crystal
April Diamond Diamond Opal Diamond Quartz,
White Sapphire
May Emerald Emerald Sapphire Agate Chrysoprase,
Beryl
June Pearl, Moonstone Alexandrite Moonstone Pearl Opal
July Ruby Ruby Ruby Ruby Carnelian
August Peridot Sardonyx Diamond Sapphire

Jade
Lapis Lazuli

September Sapphire Sapphire Agate Moonstone Diamond,
Chrysolite
October Opal,
Tourmaline
Tourmaline Jasper Opal Pink Tourmaline,
Zircon
Aquamarine
November

Yellow Topaz,
Citrine

Citrine Pearl Topaz Diamond
December Blue Topaz,
Turquoise
Zircon, Turquoise,
Lapis Lazuli
Onyx Ruby

 

 

Star Signs

Sun Sign Birthstone Planetary Stone Lucky Charms
Capricorn
December 22 - January 19
Ruby, Agate & Garnet Lapis Lazuli Ruby
Aquarius
January 20 - February 18
Garnet, Moss Agate,
Opal & Amethyst
Turquoise Garnet & Hyacinth
Pisces
February 19 - March 20
Rock Crystal, Sapphire,
Amethyst & Bloodstone
Aquamarine Amethyst
Aries
March 21 - April 19
Bloodstone & Diamond Jasper Diamond, Jasper &
Bloodstone
Taurus
April 20 - May 20
Sapphire, Turquoise, Amber, Blood Coral & Emerald
Emerald &
Aventurine
Sapphire & Diamond
Gemini
May 21 - June 20
Agate, Chrysoprase &
Pearl
Tiger Eye Agate & Emerald
Cancer
June 21 - July 22
Emerald, Moonstone,
Pearl & Ruby
Moonstone Emerald, Agate &
Chalcedony
Leo
July 23 - August 22
Tourmaline, Sardonyx &
Onyx
Rock Crystal Onyx & Amber
Virgo
August 23 - September 22
Jasper, Carnelian, Jade &
Sapphire
Citrine Carnelian & Sardonyx
Libra
September 23 - October 22
Opal, Lapis Lazuli &
Peridot
Sapphire Opal, Chrysolite &
Sardonyx
Scorpio
October 23 - November 21
Aquamarine & Topaz Garnet & Ruby Aquamarine & Beryl
Sagittarius
November 22 - December 21
Sapphire, Amethyst,
Turquoise & Topaz
Topaz Topaz & Pearl

 

 

About Happy Buddha: In China, it's believed that Happy Buddha is a frequent Feng Shui cure, said to bring wisdom, prosperity and happiness.
Happy Buddha always brings good news, glad tidings and most all happy events. The bag he carries with him is believed to contain the infinite riches of the world. It is believed that the Laughing Buddha uses this magical bag to absorb all the worldly sorrows and turns them into seeds of happiness and love. With a big smiling face, the Laughing Buddha (Matrieya) always brings happiness in every situation. Life is incomplete without a smile in your daily endeavor's.

 

C

 

CUT - THE 4th 'C'

THE CUT OF A DIAMOND AFFECTS THE TRANSFER
OF LIGHT & SHINE

Since the middle ages mankind has crafted the diamond shape in an effort to release the magical fire and light from within the stone. With the knowledge and experience of hundreds of years, today's master cutters are able to craft a gem using the diamond's unique optical qualities to yield the highest possible light performance through REFLECTION, REFRACTION AND DISPERSION.



 

When a diamond is correctly sculpted the light reflected externally will amplify and disperse the refracted light from within to provide a myriad of colours and an even concentration of LIGHT, BRILLIANCE and LUSTER. A skillful cutter can unlock an incomparable natural beauty by accurately arranging each facet to maximize the amount of light returned to eye of the observer. When a diamond is cut optimize light performance it is said to be of IDEAL PROPORTIONS.


HEAVY DEEP CUT
This cut is too deep. There is insufficient angle to reflect light out of the top. Therefore it exhibits less brilliance than the ideal cut.


IDEAL RUSSIAN CUTClick for Larger Image
Cut to the correct proportions, light is internally reflected
from one facet to another. Dispersing the light through the top of the stone.

 


LIGHT SHALLOW CUT
This cut is too shall. Light escapes through the pavilion. Therefore it displays much brilliance than an ideal Russian cut diamond.

 

Shine

REFLECTIONClick for Larger Image
With the knowledge and experience of hundreds of years. Today's master cutters are able to craft a gem using the Diamond's unique optical qualities to yield the highest possible light performance through Reflection, Refraction & Dispersion.

 

 

REFRACTIONClick for Larger Image
When a Diamond is correctly sculpted the light reflected externally will amplify
and disperse the refracted light from within to provide a myriad of colours and an even concentration of Light, Brilliance and Luster.

 

 

DISPERSIONClick for Larger Image
A skillful cutter can unlock an incomparable natural
beauty by accurately arranging each facet to maximize the amount of light returned to eye. When a Diamond is cut
to optimize light performance it is said to be of IDEAL PROPORTION
S.

 

Brilliance

HEAVY DEEP CUT
This cut is too deep. There insufficient angle to reflect light out of the top.
Therefore it exhibits less brilliance than idea

Click for Larger Image Click for Larger Image

IDEAL RUSSIAN CUT
Cut to the correct proportions. Light is internally reflected from one facet to another.
Dispersing the light through the top of the stone

Click for Larger Image Click for Larger Image

LIGHT SHALLOW CUT
This cut is too shallow. Light escapes through the pavilion. Therefore it displays much less brilliance
than an ideal Russian Cut Diamond

Click for Larger Image Click for Larger Image

 

The Cutter's Choice-Brilliance or WeightClick for Larger Image
Two attitudes to value have existed since the beginning of diamond cutting . One is based on the final weight of a Diamond, and, the other on its Fire and Luster.
These two approaches lead to contradictory results.

 

 

To gain the heaviest stone would be to sacrifice its makeClick for Larger Image
and gem brilliance, whereas, cutting to ideal proportions will reduce its retained weight.

 

 

 

Two similar rough stones one cutter may cut "For Brilliance"Click for Larger Image
producing a correctly proportioned brilliant, diamond weighing 1.00ct. The other cutter may work "For Weight". His stone weighing 1.15ct. But it's proportions are
only medium or poor.

 

A diamond that is cut neat to ideal proportions is said
to be of good or fine make .

 

Click for Larger Image

 

 

A stone which has been cut to obtain the maximum weightClick for Larger Image
from rough crystal is said to be of fair or poor make.

 

 

 

The most common ways that extra weight is retained are:Click for Larger Image

 

 

 

 

Variation on the angles of the Crown (top) and PavilionClick for Larger Image
(bottom). Roundness and Symmetry

 

 

 

 

The Following three pictures show "Variation in Girdle Thickness"

Click for Larger Image Click for Larger Image Click for Larger Image

 

 

Carnelian

 

Hardness : 7
Variety of: Chalcedony (type of quartz)
Found in: Brazil, Uruguay, Japan, England, India,
South America, the United States and Australia.

Carnelian is a translucent stone available in varying shades that range from flesh pink to burnt orange, red and brown. It was argued that carnelian's colour was reminiscent of bloodied human flesh and this explains the derivation of its name: carne being Latin for flesh or meat. Although the gem is comprised primarily of silcon dioxide, it woes its warm tones to the iron oxide impurities it contains.
Deposits of carnelian are found close to the Earth's surface where conditions are cooler and less pressurised. Carnelian is a member of the chalcedony family; its most well-known relatives are sard, heliotrope bloodstone, moss agate,chrsoprase, banded agate and flint.
As microcrystalline forms of quartz, chalcedony gems are among the most abundant on Earth. Consequently, carnelian can be found in numerous countries all over the world. Uruguay and Japan are among the most popular locations, however the main source of carnelian is Campo de Maia in South America, Many of the specimens derived from here are colour treated with ferrous nitrate to enhance their hue. Of all the placed carnelian is found, India is regarded by the jewellery industry as the place where the best-quality examples are found.
Its uses are just as varied. Throughout history, ancient civilizations discovered that the stone would not adhere to wax. For this reason, they carved pieces of carnelian into wax stamps and used the implements to add personalised seals to the important documents of kings and merchants.
On a spiral level, the stone was known in ancient Egypt as the 'Blood of Isis' (Goddess of Nature and Guide of Souls to the Underworld). Accordingly, a carnelian amulet called a 'thet' was placed upon the throats of corpses in the belief it would evoke the assistance of Isis to guide the soul safely to the next life. For this reason numerous pieces of jewellery containing carnelian were uncovered in ancient Egyptian tombs. So strong was the Egyptian peoples' faith in carnelian that along with turquoise and lapis lazuli, it was the most used stone in ancient Egyptian jewellery.
For some, carnelian pieces are more than just adornments, with many believing in the stone's physical and emotional healing power. The gem is said to promote happiness, impart courage, restore confidence, guard the body against poisons and assist in childbirth. Many New Age healers us carnelian to assist health complaints originating in the lower abdomen. They also have faith in is ability to heal rheumatism, asthma, insomnia and skin conditions like acne. Red carnelian is believed to help with diseases of the blood and nosebleeds and to purify one's circulation.

D

 

 

E

 

 

F

Fluorite: Is said to makie order out of Chaos!

 

G

Gold Hallmarks
When purchasing an item of gold jewellery, always look for a carat mark which should be stamped on it. This is a quality mark and refers to the proportion of pure gold in the item. Pure gold, which is 24ct, the metric equivalent being 1000, is generally considered too soft for practical uses in jewellery and is alloyed with other precious and base metals to increase its durability. Some of the common markings found on jewellery, with their metric equivalents, are:

9ct or 375 14ct or 585 18ct or 750 22ct or 916

Some other precious metal markings on jewellery are:

Silver - sterling or 925
Platinum - Plat, Pt or 950
Palladium - Pal, PD or 900

Markings on jewellery items are not limited to the carat or qualify mark. You may find a manufacturer's trade mark, logo or initials on some jewellery, particularly items made in the United Kingdom where a comprehensive hallmarking systems is in place.

 

Gemstones

Why buy a coloured Gemstone?
Each person has his or her own reason for wanting to buy, own, or wear a coloured gemstone. There are, however, several basic - and valid - reasons that make gemstones a desirable possession.

Gemstones are primarily beautiful. Every stone is a natural work of art, each one having a distinct and separate personality possessing unique and distinguishing beauty marks.

Gemstones are durable. Gemstones are capable of lasting for generations - even, in some cases - for centuries. The treasures of King Tut prove that gemstones endure through many lifetimes.

Gemstones are rare. While it is true that there are new sources of gemstones, today's economy has brought "expendable" income to more people than ever, and this affluent public shares the historic love of gemstones. Therefore, since the demand for gemstones is greater than ever, the supply is, in fact, limited in its ability to meet this demand.

What determines the value of a gemstone?

There are several factors that determine the value (and price) of a gemstone.

Colour - the strength and purity of a gemstone's colour is of prime importance. There is no established "right" or "wrong" colour, and there are literally thousands of shades of red, blue and green, for example. Therefore, you should make your selection according to your own personal taste.

Cut - The cut of a gemstone is of extraordinary importance. The proper cutting emphases the richness of the gemstone's inherent colour, which is the focal point of the gem's beauty that attracts the eye.

Clarity - While the clarity of a gemstone is an important feature, it is equally important to remember that completely "flawless" gemstones are very rare. Inclusions are inherent tot practically every gemstone and are nature's way of adding variety and individuality to a gemstone. Even the most expensive contain some inclusions.

Carat Weight - Obviously, the size or weight of a gemstone also affects its value. Remember 1.00ct of gem weight equate to 0.20 gram. It is not a quality rating as in gold.

 


Garnet - lights the way

December- Garnet
Hardness: 7.5
Variety of: Contains compounds of silica, aluminum,
calcium, iron and magnesium
Found:Throughout Africa, Europe, America, Asia & Australia

Deep red is generally the colour that comes to mind when thinking of garnets, but the family actually encompasses gems of nearly every colour, bar blue. Some garnet varieties change colour in different lights and some exhibit stars.
The blood red coloured garnet is known as Pyrope garnet, whose colour is due to chromium. Its best examples come from Bohemia and South Africa, where they are found as accessory minerals in diamond mines.
Other reddish varieties of garnets include the Almandine garnet, which ranges from red to orange to brown. A cross between the pyrope and almandine garnet is the Rhodolite garnet, which is a beautiful purple-red colour.
A particularly valuable and rare variety of green garnet is the Demantoid garnet, the finest examples coming from the Ural mountains in Russia and found in the 19th century jewellery favoured by the Tsars.
The name 'garnet' is derived from the Latin 'granum' meaning grain. This is a reference to the gem's topical cabochon-cut shape, which looks like the red seeds of a pomegranate.
The use of garnet dates back to biblical times, with several references to the gem in the Bible. Legend has it that a large garnet adorned a pedestal in the middle of Noah's Ark. The brightness of the stone was said to illuminate the sea, allowing the ship to travel safely through the night.
The garnet's continuing popularity lies in its natural entreated beauty,the extensive range of colour available and its brilliance, owing to its high refraction of light.
Garnet is a tough stone that will withstand everyday wear and can be set into jewellery pieces with minimal fuss. A simple cleaning regime of wiping the stone with a dry, soft cloth is sufficient to keep a garnet looking beautiful.

 

 

H

Gold Hallmarks
When purchasing an item of gold jewellery, always look for a carat mark which should be stamped on it. This is a quality mark and refers to the proportion of pure gold in the item. Pure gold, which is 24ct, the metric equivalent being 1000, is generally considered too soft for practical uses in jewellery and is alloyed with other precious and base metals to increase its durability. Some of the common markings found on jewellery, with their metric equivalents, are:

9ct or 375 14ct or 585 18ct or 750 22ct or 916

Some other precious metal markings on jewellery are:

Silver - sterling or 925
Platinum - Plat, Pt or 950
Palladium - Pal, PD or 900

Markings on jewellery items are not limited to the carat or quality mark. You may find a manufacturer's trade mark, logo or initials on some jewellery, particularly items made in the United Kingdom where a comprehensive hallmarking systems is in place.

 

 

I

 

 

J

Why you should buy your gold from a JAA jeweller

  • Knowledge of the gold industry and the nature of gold requires years of extensive study. Therefore, it is absolutely vital that you purchase your gold jewellery from a reputable jeweller, one that you can trust.
  • Established jewellers prize their good reputation.
  • It is important to known the company you are dealing with. Ask questions. Be confident of returning for advise and service in the future.
  • A JAA jeweller can explain about the characteristics of gold and how to care for it properly.
  • You can be assured of professional service and specialist, honest advice.

Can I trust my jeweller?

Members of the Jewellers Association of Australia are committed to quality, professionalism and value in accordance with their Code of Ethics. In addition, many support the Jewellery & Timepieces Industry code which binds Jewllers to fair trading practices, ethical competition and credible pricing.

 

 

Jade - the hip stone

Hardness: 6.5 - 7
Variety of: calcium, magnesium and iron silicate (nephrite), sodium, aluminum and silicate (jadeite)
Found: many locations around the world

Jade is the overarching name for two different mineral species: nephrite and jadeite. Until 1863, no previous distinction had been made between them, despite the fact that they share no relation but appearance. The jadeite variety is rarer and thus more precious and highly sought after.
Nephrite jade is found in many places around the world, but appears so abundantly in the Sayan Mountains in New Zealand that it is often referred to as New Zealand jade. In contrast, jadeite is found primarily in Myanmar with small quantities discovered in Guatemala, California (USA), China and Russia.
Varying in colour, nephrite jade ranges from deep green as the presence of iron over magnesium increases, to a buff colour (more magnesium than iron). Such cream-coloured specimens are often known by the unfortunate name of 'mutton fat' jade. Where the iron content in nephrite jade has become oxidised, the stone comes in shades of brown.
The word 'jade' is of Spanish origin, derived from the word piedra de hijada, meaning 'hip stone'. When Spanish explorers brought pieces of the mineral from their travels in India, they decided that the stones looked like kidneys and would thus be useful in aiding diseases of the organ. The French shortened the Spanish name to ejade.
In addition to is fabled connection with the kidneys, jade has been assigned many other healing properties. It is said to aid in blood purification, bone problems, chest and lung ailments, asthma and heartburn. Purple jade with yellow specks was said to resemble a liver penetrated with bile and was believed to heal that organ and related bilious disorders. Dark red jade was used to stop the flow of blood when applied to deep wounds.

 

The many forms of Jasper

 

 

Hardness: 7
Variety of: Chalcedony quartz
Found: France, Germany, India, Russia,
Venezuela, Sicily, North Africa, Australia and USA

Jasper is an unfaceted, compact variety of quartz, usually red or brown in colour; however, differing hues and patterns can appear in the presence of other minerals. The gem is formed in sedimentary and metamorphic rock, making it a common and inexpensive stone found around the world.
Of unclear origins, jasper's etymology has traces in Hebrew, Assyrian, Greek, and Latin literature, though in ancient writings, the term encompassed all clear and brightly coloured stones and not simply the one variety of gemstone it represents today.
Because of its varied appearance, jasper is often named in accordance with its pattern. Examples include the layered and colourful picture jasper - which some claim is reminiscent of a desert landscape - and the heavy-banded ribbon jasper.
Such is the diversity of the gemstone that different varieties can be formed through entirely different processes. For example, picture jasper is produced when mud drips into gas pockets in molten lava where it is heated and then cooled to leave a layered, colourful gemstone, while Egyptian jasper, another rare form, is a brown stone found inside lumps of minerals that surround hard sedimentary rock.
According to popular Greek myth, a piece of jasper would ease the pain of childbirth if tied to a woman's thigh during labour and could prevent drowning and scorpion bites. In addition it has been claimed the wearing jasper strengthens the stomach, cures gynecological problems, improves one's sense of smell and soothes frayed nerves.
For all it forms, jasper has a dull, opaque lustre. As such, it is polished and convex-cut for use in jewellery and ornamental decoration. It is also commonly worn as beads. While the polish on jasper may wash away in water, it is often sealed with petroleum products. Usually cabbed, sometimes carved, and seldom faceted, whichever the type, jasper is an easily polished gem that is trouble-free to care for , and tough enough for all jewellery uses.

 

 

 

 

K

Kuan Yin also known as Quan Yin and Kwan yin, the Goddesses of Mercy and Compassion. Her name translates as The One Who Hears the Cries of the World, and she is the Chinese representation of the Boddhisattva Acalokiteswara. Because of her willingness to help, Kuan - Yin is the patron saint of barren women and protects those whose lives depend on the elements, such as farmers and fishermen.

 

L

 

 

M

The magic of Moonstone

Hardness: 6
Variety of: Silicate of potassium, aluminum and sodium
Found: Sri-Lanka, India, European Alps, America,

Australia, Tanzania, Brazil, Burma and Myanmar

Moonstone is a crystalline mineral and a variety of the feldspar family (matter derived from granite and other coarse rocks that form under intense heart).
Approximately half of the Earth's crust in comprised of feldspar. Moonstone is part of the feldspar variety called 'adularia', a silicate of potassium, aluminum and sodium. Other gem varieties of feldspar include labradorite, amzonite and sunstone.
Gemmologically, moonstone is very interesting because of its conclusions. Called 'centipedes' of 'Chinese aeroplanes', these inclusions are used as positive proof of moonstone.
The origins of moonstone's name can be traced back to varying cultures and their similar beliefs about the stone's appearance. In Asia, moonstones distinctive blue sheen is said to reminiscent of moonlight.
Moonstone comes in a variety of colours, yet all seem bathed in a pale blue shimmer that appears when light is reflected onto it from different angles. This effect is know as 'adularescence' or 'schiller' and is caused by the internal structure of the stone that embodies two different types of feldspar, each with slightly different refractive indexes.
Basically, when light hits the stone, it is scattered in different directions, causing the appearance of a 'shifting' blue shimmer. When cut properly, traditionally into a cabochon, this 'adularescence' effect is enhanced and the moonstone reaches its full aesthetic potential.
Some people believe that the stone balances the forces of Yin and Yang and it is often regarded as an appropriate gift for couples, as it is said to promote true love, passion, intuition and sensitivity toward others.
When purchasing moonstones, you may be surprised at the great difference in price among individual gems. This is due to the wide variation in the stone's quality. The larger the stone, the clearer it is and the more intense its colour, the more expensive it will be. Highest quality moonstones are almost colourless with a bright blue sheen.
Moonstone can be easily scratched and should be handled with caution.

N

 

Nickel Allergy?
Do you think you cannot wear gold jewellery because you develop an allergic reaction to it? Pure gold is a noble metal and as such is chemically stable. Problems associated with gold jewellery are usually due to the presence of the alloying metals i.e. nickel, silver, copper and zinc, interacting with the wearer's environment.

The most common cause of allergic reactions to jewellery is the presence of nickel. Nickel has frequently been used in white gold alloys because it is inexpensive, hard and has a strong whitening effect. Better quality white gold alloys are palladium, which has excellent properties, avoids the skin problems but is more expensive. A condition known as Nickel Allergy Contact Dermatitis (NACD) is on the increase due mainly to the increased popularity of body piercing. NACD is characterised by a range of skin symptoms from dryness, chapping and inflammation to eczema and blisters.

With the other alloying metals electrolysis can occur on moist salty skin surfaces. This certainly happens with copper, its ions stain the skin green. If silver in jewellery is oxidized or sulphides of these metals can also darken the skin. Obviously the wearer's environment can exacerbate these problems. Agents such as detergents, bleach, cosmetics, swimming pools, maritime environments should all be considered when endeavoring to understand a customer's problem. Generally complaints are more frequent with low gold content alloys, i.e. 9ct, and upgrading to a higher caratage usually solves all problems.

 

 

O

 

 

P

PEARLS

Type of Pearls

Akoya - One of the most familiar type of cultured pearls, they are grown in pearl oysters off the coast of Japan. Akoya pearls are known for their lovely orient and warm colour. They rarely grow more than 9mm in size.

Mabe - Large hemispherical cultured pearls grown against the inside shells of oysters instead of within the body. Less expensive then regular round cultured pearls and, because of their hemispherical shape, they are usually mounted in such jewellery as earrings, rings and brooches.

Fresh Water - Pearls cultivated in molluscs, not oysters, found in fresh water lakes and rivers. Fresh water pearls generally are elongated in shape and have a milky translucent appearance. Their wide range of interesting shapes and colours make up in fashion appeal for their relatively low value. In China, shape and luster are rapidly improving and round freshwater pearls are readily available.

Keshi - Seedless pearls which form naturally in many cultured pearl oysters in both Akoya and South Sea pearls. They also come in a variety of colours, shapes and sizes.

South Sea Pearls

Australian - Large cultured pearls (10mm and larger) frown in large oysters (called Pinctada Maxima) in warm waters off the Australian coast. These pearls are found in a variety of colours including white, silver, gold and rose. Australian South Sea pearls are generally rare and valuable.

Indonesian - Large cultured pearls (8mm and larger) generally smaller in size and creamier in colour than their Australian counterparts.

Tahitian - Large cultured pearls (10mm and larger) which are grown in large oysters (Pinctada Margaritifera - black lipped) off the islands of French Polynesia. Colours range from soft grey to black hues of reds, blues and greens.

Selecting necklaces

Choose a cultured pearl necklace for its effect on you appearance and personality. Long necklaces are informal and versatile, while short necklaces can be demure or sophisticated.

Choker necklets enhance a long neck and longer strands slenderize and appear to elongate the neck. For fair skinned women, rose-hued pearls are most flattering, while cream and gold colour pearls set off darker skin tones best. Here is a guide to necklace lengths and terminology:

Choker - 35-40cm (14" - 16") in length. Should nestle around the base of the neck in single or multiple strands.

Princess - 45cm (18") in length. Halfway between a choker and matinee length.

Matinee - 50-60cm (20" - 24") in length. Should fall to the top of the cleavage.

Opera - 70-80cm (28" - 32") in length. Should fall to the breastbone.

Sautoir or Rope - Any pearl necklace longer than opera length.

Bib - Multiple strands of pearls, each shorter than the one below, nested together in one necklace.

Graduated - A necklace comprise of pearls which taper downward in size from large pearls in the center to smaller pearls at the ends.

Uniform - A necklace which appears to be comprised entirely of pearls of the same size, though there is generally a slight difference in size between the center and the end pearls for a more proportionate look.

Cultured pearl care

Cultured pearls are precious jewels and should be treated as such.
The following guidelines may assist you in caring for them.

Don't toss them carelessly into a purse or jewel box where they may be scratched by hard metal edges or harder stones.

Don't wear pearls while bathing, in the shower or while playing sport.

Put your pearls on after applying cosmetics, hairsprays and perfume.

Before any cleaning is undertaken, seek the advise of your JAA Jeweller.

Have your pearls restrung once a year.

Have a knot between each pearl which will prevent loss if the string breaks.

 

Q

 

 

R

Your Ring - Where Size Matters

A ring is the most intimate of jewels and is often worn every day. It should fit well and feel comfortable, so here are some tips about correctly sizing your ring.

  • Measure your finger size at the end of the day when your fingers are at their largest (like sizing shoes).
  • Don't measure finger sizes when your hands are cold: let them warm up to room temperature.
  • The width of a ring is an important factor in determining the right finger size.
  • A wider ring may require a slightly larger size, because it covers more of your finger.

RING SIZE CONVERSION TABLE

INCHES
MM
HK
JAP
USA
AU/UK
FRA
GER
SWIT
.52
13.21
3
2
2
D
41.5
13.25
1.5
.536
13.61
5
3
2.5
E
42.75
13.75
2.75
.553
14.05
6
4
3
F
44
14
4
5
G
45.25
5.25
.569
14.45
7.5
3.5
14.5
6.5
3.75
H
46.5
6.5
.585
14.86
9
7
4
H.5
15
4.25
I
47.75
7.75
.601
15.27
10
8
4.5
I.5
15.25
J
49
9
.618
15.70
11
9
5
J.5
15.75
K
50
10
.634
16.10
12
5.5
L
51.75
16
11.75
11
L.5
.650
16.51
13
12
6
M
52.75
16.5
12.75
.666
16.92
14.5
13
6.5
N
54
17
14
.683
17.35
16
14
7
O
55.25
17.25
15.25
.699
17.75
17
15
7.5
P
56.5
17.75
16.5
.716
18.19
18
16
8
Q
57.75
18
17.75
.732
18.59
19
17
8.5
18
R
59
19
.748
18.99
20.5
18
9
19
S
60.25
20.25
.764
19.41
22
19
9.5
19.5
T
61.5
21.5
.781
19.84
23
20
10
T.5
20
21
10.25
U
62.75
22.75
.797
20.24
24
22
10.5
U.5
20.25
V
63.75
23.75

 

 

S

Spinel - the great imposter

 

Hardness: 8
Variety of: Aluminate of magnesium
Found: Burma, Sri Lanka, Africa, Australia, Pakistan, Sweden and Brazil

Spinel is a form of magnesium aluminate available in a wide range of colours. Not a particularly well-known gem, it is definitely not as popular as any of the birthstones, but is still valuable when traded in its ideal form - a red colour, similar to ruby.
This red colour reflects the level of chromium and iron deposits in the gem's composition. In different amounts, these chemicals can create any colour from a light rose to a deep red.
So vibrant are the deep red examples of spinel that it was once considered a form of ruby and for many years, it was difficult to differentiate between the two.
The illustrious red spinel is a product of Burma, while the deep blue and purple examples are customary of high-quality stones in Sri Lanka.
While the most precious gems are deep red, the purest types of spinel are actually white.
Spinel can also be found in burnt orange, rich blue to violet hues (characteristic of examples mined in Asia), green (so dark that it is almost black), and in colourless forms.
The extensive palette of colours is due to how easily the stone is manipulated by chemical impurities. This attribute has made the gem extremely susceptible to artificial manufacture and labs regularly generate spectacular colours by adding different chemicals. As a result, synthetic spinel is often used to mimick birthstones, a role that has damaged the integrity of the gem.
Its reputation as a great imposter is further enhanced by the fact that many of the world's most famous rubies have actually proven to be natural spinel. Indeed, at one stage, spinel was even known as Balas Ruby.
Folklore entails that Balas rubies would afford the wearer protection from financial and physical ruin. In some cases, the gem has been said to improve mental powers, expanding the imagination and controlling the thoughts of others.
Now treasured for its own sake, spinel is a favorite among gem collectors due to its brilliance, hardness and wide range of spectacular colours.

 

T

Tridacna is a kind of rare organic precious stone, derived from deep sea especially southern Indian Ocean. It is a treasure of Buddhism. It is said that its white degree is the highest degree of white in the world.

 

U

 

 

V

 

 

W

 

 

X

 

 

Y

 

 

Z

 

 

 

   

 

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