|
Glossary
This
glossary gives you the meanings and details behind everyday gem
and jewellery terminology. Please click on an alphabet letter below
for the range of definitions.
A
B
C D
E F
G H
I J
K L
M N
O P
Q R
S T
U V
W X
Y Z
All Gemstone
photos courtesy of Thaigem.com
A
ANNIVERSARIES
Modern
Wedding Anniversary List
| 1st |
Pearl |
15th |
Diamond |
| 2nd |
Coral |
16th |
Jade |
| 3rd |
Turquoise |
17th |
Emerald |
| 4th |
Amber |
18th |
Malachite |
| 5th |
Diamond |
19th |
Beryl |
| 6th |
Sapphire |
20th |
Diamond |
| 7th |
Aquamarine |
25th |
Silver |
| 8th |
Amethyst |
30th |
Diamond |
| 9th |
Tourmaline |
35th |
Pearl |
| 10th |
Diamond |
40th |
Ruby |
| 11th |
Garnet |
45th |
Sapphire |
| 12th |
Citrine |
50th |
Gold |
| 13th |
Lapis |
55th |
Emerald |
| 14th |
Opal |
60th |
Diamond |
Audacious
Alexandrite

Hardness:
8.5
Variety of : Chysoberyl
Found: Brazil, Sri Lanka, Zimbabwe, Tunduru, India, Burma,
Madagascar and Tasmania
One
of the most remarkable things about alexandrite is the way it changes
colour under varying light sources. Green in natural light, red
to purple to grey in artificial light - the more marked the transition
in colour and the more vivid the shades, the more prized and expensive
the stone.
An alexandrite of fine quality in a large size is scarcer than ruby,
emerald or sapphire. The gem is rare because its creation requires
the marriage of two different kinds of stone: one made from aluminum
and beryllium, the other made of chrome. As conditions fostering
such development during the Earth's formation were rear, the occurrence
of alexandrite is very small.
Natural alexandrite is a member of the chrysoberyl family, a group
of gems consisting of a colourless to yellow-toned chrysoberyl and
a kind of cat's eye. While all chrysoberyl contains beryllium aluminum
oxide, alexandrite also contains chrome, iron and titanium. It is
the chrome to which alexandrite owes its unique ability to change
colour. However, this is unusual. While chrome is known to give
colour to many stones, only in alexandrite does it allow for a change
of shades.
Fittingly, alexandrite derives its name from the Tsar of Russia,
Alexander 11, who apparently celebrated his birthday on the same
day that the gem was first discovered in 1830. In addition, alexandrite
displays the same red and green that comprised the colours of Imperialist
Russia's flag. Because of this, it is looked upon as a gem that
brings good fortune to those who wear it.
Other mystical properties assigned to alexandrite are its alleged
ability to sharpen intuition and intellect by imparting new knowledge
and presenting new solutions. Alexandrite is also said to promote
imagination and creativity in its wearers. It can boost their self-esteem
and allow them to experience heightened joy. The stone is also said
to help balance one's emotional state and enhance feelings of passion.
Healthwise, the gem is believed to be useful in helping to treat
disorders of the pancreas, lymph nodes and spleen, as well as relieving
the symptoms of leukemia.
Amethyst
is said to help
us connect to our spiritual selves!
Amethyst
cures impatience, and alleviates feelings of victimization. Amethyst
has a calming effect, balancing high energy, highly driven or highly
creative people.
Allergic
to Gold / Nickel?
Do
you think you cannot wear gold jewellery because you develop an
allergic reaction to it? Pure gold is a noble metal and as such
is chemically stable. Problems associated with gold jewellery are
usually due to the presence of the alloying metals i.e. nickel,
silver, copper and zinc, interacting with the wearer's environment.
The
most common cause of allergic reactions to jewellery is the presence
of nickel. Nickel has frequently been used in white gold alloys
because it is inexpensive, hard and has a strong whitening effect.
Better quality white gold alloys are palladium, which has excellent
properties, avoids the skin problems but is more expensive. A condition
known as Nickel Allergy Contact Dermatitis (NACD) is on the increase
due mainly to the increased popularity of body piercing. NACD is
characterised by a range of skin symptoms from dryness, chapping
and inflammation to eczema and blisters.
With
the other alloying metals electrolysis can occur on moist salty
skin surfaces. This certainly happens with copper, its ions stain
the skin green. If silver in jewellery is oxidized or sulphides
of these metals can also darken the skin. Obviously the wearer's
environment can exacerbate these problems. Agents such as detergents,
bleach, cosmetics, swimming pools, maritime environments should
all be considered when endeavoring to understand a customer's problem.
Generally complaints are more frequent with low gold content alloys,
i.e. 9ct, and upgrading to a higher caratage usually solves all
problems.
B
Birthstones
|
January
|
Garnet
|
|
February
|
Amethyst
|
|
March
|
Aquamarine
|
|
April
|
Diamond
|
|
May
|
Emerald
|
|
June
|
Pearl
|
|
July
|
Ruby
|
|
August
|
Peridot
|
|
September
|
Sapphire
|
|
October
|
Opal
& Pink Tourmaline
|
|
November
|
Citrine
|
|
December
|
Tanzanite
|
The
Modern Birthstone
list is an official birthstone list from the American National Association
of Jewellers adopted in 1912.
The
Traditional Birthstone list
of older birthstones is sometimes combined with the modern birthstone
list reflecting the societal traditions, heralding.
The
Mystical Birthstone list
is of Tibetan origin from over a thousand years ago.
The
Ayurvedic Birthstone list
is from Ayurvedic Indian Medicine.
Alternative
Birthstones
Birth
Month
Birthstones
|
Modern
Birthstones
|
Traditional
Birthstones
|
Mystical
Birthstones
|
Ayurvedic
Birthstones
|
Other
Birthstones
|
| January |
Garnet |
Garnet |
Emerald |
Garnet |
Rose
Quartz |
| February |
Amethyst |
Amethyst |
Bloodstone |
Amethyst |
Onyx,
Moonstone
|
| March |
Aquamarine |
Bloodstone |
Jade |
Bloodstone |
Rock
Crystal |
| April |
Diamond |
Diamond |
Opal |
Diamond |
Quartz,
White Sapphire |
| May |
Emerald |
Emerald |
Sapphire |
Agate |
Chrysoprase,
Beryl |
| June |
Pearl,
Moonstone |
Alexandrite |
Moonstone |
Pearl |
Opal |
| July |
Ruby |
Ruby |
Ruby |
Ruby |
Carnelian |
| August |
Peridot |
Sardonyx |
Diamond |
Sapphire |
Jade
Lapis Lazuli
|
| September |
Sapphire |
Sapphire |
Agate |
Moonstone |
Diamond,
Chrysolite |
| October |
Opal,
Tourmaline
|
Tourmaline |
Jasper |
Opal |
Pink
Tourmaline,
Zircon
Aquamarine |
| November |
Yellow
Topaz,
Citrine
|
Citrine |
Pearl |
Topaz |
Diamond |
| December |
Blue
Topaz,
Turquoise
|
Zircon,
Turquoise,
Lapis Lazuli
|
Onyx |
Ruby |
|
Star
Signs
| Sun
Sign |
Birthstone |
Planetary
Stone |
Lucky
Charms |
Capricorn
December 22 - January 19
|
Ruby, Agate &
Garnet |
Lapis Lazuli |
Ruby |
Aquarius
January 20 - February 18
|
Garnet,
Moss Agate,
Opal & Amethyst
|
Turquoise |
Garnet
& Hyacinth |
Pisces
February 19 - March 20
|
Rock
Crystal, Sapphire,
Amethyst & Bloodstone
|
Aquamarine |
Amethyst |
Aries
March 21 - April 19
|
Bloodstone &
Diamond |
Jasper |
Diamond, Jasper
&
Bloodstone |
Taurus
April 20 - May 20
|
Sapphire,
Turquoise, Amber, Blood Coral & Emerald
|
Emerald
&
Aventurine
|
Sapphire
& Diamond |
Gemini
May 21 - June 20
|
Agate,
Chrysoprase &
Pearl
|
Tiger
Eye |
Agate
& Emerald |
Cancer
June 21 - July 22
|
Emerald,
Moonstone,
Pearl & Ruby
|
Moonstone |
Emerald,
Agate &
Chalcedony |
Leo
July 23 - August 22
|
Tourmaline,
Sardonyx &
Onyx
|
Rock
Crystal |
Onyx
& Amber |
Virgo
August 23 - September 22
|
Jasper,
Carnelian, Jade &
Sapphire
|
Citrine |
Carnelian
& Sardonyx |
Libra
September 23 - October 22
|
Opal,
Lapis Lazuli &
Peridot
|
Sapphire |
Opal,
Chrysolite &
Sardonyx |
Scorpio
October 23 - November 21
|
Aquamarine &
Topaz |
Garnet &
Ruby |
Aquamarine &
Beryl |
Sagittarius
November 22 - December 21
|
Sapphire, Amethyst,
Turquoise & Topaz
|
Topaz |
Topaz & Pearl |
About
Happy Buddha:
In China,
it's believed that Happy Buddha is a frequent Feng Shui cure, said
to bring wisdom, prosperity and happiness.
Happy Buddha always brings good news, glad tidings and most all
happy events. The bag he carries with him is believed to contain
the infinite riches of the world. It is believed that the Laughing
Buddha uses this magical bag to absorb all the worldly sorrows and
turns them into seeds of happiness and love. With a big smiling
face, the Laughing Buddha (Matrieya) always brings happiness in
every situation. Life is incomplete without a smile in your daily
endeavor's.
C
CUT
- THE 4th 'C'
THE
CUT OF A DIAMOND AFFECTS THE TRANSFER
OF LIGHT & SHINE
Since the middle ages mankind
has crafted the diamond shape in an effort to release the magical
fire and light from within the stone. With the knowledge and experience
of hundreds of years, today's master cutters are able to craft a
gem using the diamond's unique optical qualities to yield the highest
possible light performance through REFLECTION,
REFRACTION AND DISPERSION.

When
a diamond is correctly sculpted the light reflected externally will
amplify and disperse the refracted light from within to provide
a myriad of colours and an even concentration of LIGHT, BRILLIANCE
and LUSTER. A skillful cutter can unlock an incomparable
natural beauty by accurately arranging each facet to maximize the
amount of light returned to eye of the observer. When a diamond
is cut optimize light performance it is said to be of IDEAL PROPORTIONS.

HEAVY DEEP
CUT
This
cut is too deep. There is insufficient angle to reflect light out
of the top. Therefore it exhibits less brilliance than the ideal
cut.
IDEAL
RUSSIAN CUT
Cut
to the correct proportions, light is internally reflected
from one facet to another. Dispersing the light through the top
of the stone.
LIGHT SHALLOW CUT
This
cut is too shall. Light escapes through the pavilion. Therefore
it displays much brilliance than an ideal Russian cut diamond.
Shine
REFLECTION
With the knowledge and experience
of hundreds of years. Today's master cutters are able to craft a
gem using the Diamond's unique optical qualities to yield the highest
possible light performance through Reflection, Refraction & Dispersion.
REFRACTION
When a Diamond is correctly sculpted the light
reflected externally will amplify and
disperse the refracted light from within to provide a myriad of
colours and an even concentration of Light, Brilliance and Luster.
DISPERSION
A skillful
cutter can unlock an incomparable natural
beauty
by accurately arranging each facet to maximize the amount of light
returned to eye. When a Diamond is cut
to optimize light performance it is said to be of IDEAL PROPORTIONS.
Brilliance
HEAVY
DEEP CUT
This cut is too deep. There insufficient angle
to reflect light out of the top.
Therefore it exhibits less brilliance than idea
IDEAL
RUSSIAN CUT
Cut to the correct proportions. Light is internally
reflected from one facet to another.
Dispersing
the light through the top of the stone

LIGHT
SHALLOW CUT
This cut is too shallow. Light escapes through
the pavilion. Therefore it displays much less brilliance
than an ideal Russian Cut Diamond

The
Cutter's Choice-Brilliance or Weight
Two attitudes
to value have existed since the beginning of diamond cutting . One
is based on the final weight of a Diamond, and, the other on its
Fire and Luster.
These
two approaches lead to contradictory results.
To
gain the heaviest stone would be to sacrifice its make
and gem
brilliance, whereas, cutting to ideal proportions will reduce its
retained weight.
Two
similar rough stones one cutter may cut "For Brilliance"
producing a correctly proportioned brilliant, diamond weighing 1.00ct.
The other cutter may work "For Weight". His stone weighing 1.15ct.
But it's proportions are
only medium or poor.
A
diamond that is cut neat to ideal proportions is said
to be
of good or fine make .

A
stone which has been cut to obtain the maximum weight
from rough crystal is said to be of fair or poor make.
The
most common ways that extra weight is retained are:
Variation
on the angles of the Crown (top) and Pavilion
(bottom). Roundness and Symmetry
The
Following three pictures show "Variation in Girdle Thickness"

Carnelian
Hardness
: 7
Variety of: Chalcedony (type of quartz)
Found in: Brazil, Uruguay, Japan, England, India,
South
America, the United States and Australia.
Carnelian
is a translucent stone available in varying shades that range from
flesh pink to burnt orange, red and brown. It was argued that carnelian's
colour was reminiscent of bloodied human flesh and this explains
the derivation of its name: carne being Latin for flesh or meat.
Although the gem is comprised primarily of silcon dioxide, it woes
its warm tones to the iron oxide impurities it contains.
Deposits of carnelian are found close to the Earth's surface where
conditions are cooler and less pressurised. Carnelian is a member
of the chalcedony family; its most well-known relatives are sard,
heliotrope bloodstone, moss agate,chrsoprase, banded agate and flint.
As microcrystalline forms of quartz, chalcedony gems are among the
most abundant on Earth. Consequently, carnelian can be found in
numerous countries all over the world. Uruguay and Japan are among
the most popular locations, however the main source of carnelian
is Campo de Maia in South America, Many of the specimens derived
from here are colour treated with ferrous nitrate to enhance their
hue. Of all the placed carnelian is found, India is regarded by
the jewellery industry as the place where the best-quality examples
are found.
Its uses are just as varied. Throughout history, ancient civilizations
discovered that the stone would not adhere to wax. For this reason,
they carved pieces of carnelian into wax stamps and used the implements
to add personalised seals to the important documents of kings and
merchants.
On a spiral level, the stone was known in ancient Egypt as the 'Blood
of Isis' (Goddess of Nature and Guide of Souls to the Underworld).
Accordingly, a carnelian amulet called a 'thet' was placed upon
the throats of corpses in the belief it would evoke the assistance
of Isis to guide the soul safely to the next life. For this reason
numerous pieces of jewellery containing carnelian were uncovered
in ancient Egyptian tombs. So strong was the Egyptian peoples' faith
in carnelian that along with turquoise and lapis lazuli, it was
the most used stone in ancient Egyptian jewellery.
For some, carnelian pieces are more than just adornments, with many
believing in the stone's physical and emotional healing power. The
gem is said to promote happiness, impart courage, restore confidence,
guard the body against poisons and assist in childbirth. Many New
Age healers us carnelian to assist health complaints originating
in the lower abdomen. They also have faith in is ability to heal
rheumatism, asthma, insomnia and skin conditions like acne. Red
carnelian is believed to help with diseases of the blood and nosebleeds
and to purify one's circulation.
D
E
F
Fluorite:
Is said to makie order out of Chaos!
G
Gold
Hallmarks
When purchasing
an item of gold jewellery, always look for a carat mark which should
be stamped on it. This is a quality mark and refers to the proportion
of pure gold in the item. Pure gold, which is 24ct, the metric equivalent
being 1000, is generally considered too soft for practical uses
in jewellery and is alloyed with other precious and base metals
to increase its durability. Some of the common markings found on
jewellery, with their metric equivalents, are:
| 9ct or
375 |
14ct
or 585 |
18ct
or 750 |
22ct
or 916 |
Some
other precious metal markings on jewellery are:
|
Silver
- sterling or 925
|
Platinum
- Plat, Pt or 950
|
|
Palladium
- Pal, PD or 900
|
|
Markings
on jewellery items are not limited to the carat or qualify mark.
You may find a manufacturer's trade mark, logo or initials on some
jewellery, particularly items made in the United Kingdom where a
comprehensive hallmarking systems is in place.
Gemstones
Why
buy a coloured Gemstone?
Each person
has his or her own reason for wanting to buy, own, or wear a coloured
gemstone. There are, however, several basic - and valid - reasons
that make gemstones a desirable possession.
Gemstones
are primarily beautiful.
Every stone is a natural work of art, each one having a distinct
and separate personality possessing unique and distinguishing beauty
marks.
Gemstones
are durable.
Gemstones are capable of lasting for generations - even, in some
cases - for centuries. The treasures of King Tut prove that gemstones
endure through many lifetimes.
Gemstones
are rare.
While
it is true that there are new sources of gemstones, today's economy
has brought "expendable" income to more people than ever,
and this affluent public shares the historic love of gemstones.
Therefore, since the demand for gemstones is greater than ever,
the supply is, in fact, limited in its ability to meet this demand.
What
determines the value of a gemstone?
There
are several factors that determine the value (and price) of a gemstone.
Colour
- the strength
and purity of a gemstone's colour is of prime importance. There
is no established "right" or "wrong" colour,
and there are literally thousands of shades of red, blue and green,
for example. Therefore, you should make your selection according
to your own personal taste.
Cut
- The cut of a gemstone is of extraordinary importance. The proper
cutting emphases the richness of the gemstone's inherent colour,
which is the focal point of the gem's beauty that attracts the eye.
Clarity
-
While the clarity of a gemstone is an important feature, it is equally
important to remember that completely "flawless" gemstones
are very rare. Inclusions are inherent tot practically every gemstone
and are nature's way of adding variety and individuality to a gemstone.
Even the most expensive contain some inclusions.
Carat
Weight
- Obviously, the size or weight of a gemstone also affects its value.
Remember 1.00ct of gem weight equate to 0.20 gram. It is not a quality
rating as in gold.
Garnet
-
lights the way
December-
Garnet
Hardness: 7.5
Variety of: Contains compounds of silica, aluminum,
calcium, iron and magnesium
Found:Throughout Africa, Europe, America, Asia & Australia
Deep
red is generally the colour that comes to mind when thinking of
garnets, but the family actually encompasses gems of nearly every
colour, bar blue. Some garnet varieties change colour in different
lights and some exhibit stars.
The blood red coloured garnet is known as Pyrope garnet, whose colour
is due to chromium. Its best examples come from Bohemia and South
Africa, where they are found as accessory minerals in diamond mines.
Other reddish varieties of garnets include the Almandine garnet,
which ranges from red to orange to brown. A cross between the pyrope
and almandine garnet is the Rhodolite garnet, which is a beautiful
purple-red colour.
A particularly valuable and rare variety of green garnet is the
Demantoid garnet, the finest examples coming from the Ural mountains
in Russia and found in the 19th century jewellery favoured by the
Tsars.
The name 'garnet' is derived from the Latin 'granum' meaning grain.
This is a reference to the gem's topical cabochon-cut shape, which
looks like the red seeds of a pomegranate.
The use of garnet dates back to biblical times, with several references
to the gem in the Bible. Legend has it that a large garnet adorned
a pedestal in the middle of Noah's Ark. The brightness of the stone
was said to illuminate the sea, allowing the ship to travel safely
through the night.
The garnet's continuing popularity lies in its natural entreated
beauty,the extensive range of colour available and its brilliance,
owing to its high refraction of light.
Garnet is a tough stone that will withstand everyday wear and can
be set into jewellery pieces with minimal fuss. A simple cleaning
regime of wiping the stone with a dry, soft cloth is sufficient
to keep a garnet looking beautiful.
H
Gold
Hallmarks
When purchasing
an item of gold jewellery, always look for a carat mark which should
be stamped on it. This is a quality mark and refers to the proportion
of pure gold in the item. Pure gold, which is 24ct, the metric equivalent
being 1000, is generally considered too soft for practical uses
in jewellery and is alloyed with other precious and base metals
to increase its durability. Some of the common markings found on
jewellery, with their metric equivalents, are:
| 9ct or
375 |
14ct
or 585 |
18ct
or 750 |
22ct
or 916 |
Some
other precious metal markings on jewellery are:
|
Silver
- sterling or 925
|
Platinum
- Plat, Pt or 950
|
|
Palladium
- Pal, PD or 900
|
|
Markings
on jewellery items are not limited to the carat or quality mark.
You may find a manufacturer's trade mark, logo or initials on some
jewellery, particularly items made in the United Kingdom where a
comprehensive hallmarking systems is in place.
I
J
Why
you should buy your gold from a JAA jeweller
- Knowledge of the gold industry
and the nature of gold requires years of extensive study. Therefore,
it is absolutely vital that you purchase your gold jewellery
from a reputable jeweller, one that you can trust.
- Established jewellers prize
their good reputation.
- It is important to known the
company you are dealing with. Ask questions. Be confident of
returning for advise and service in the future.
- A JAA jeweller can
explain about the characteristics of gold and how to care for
it properly.
- You can be assured of professional
service and specialist, honest advice.
Can
I trust my jeweller?
Members of the Jewellers
Association of Australia are committed to quality, professionalism
and value in accordance with their Code of Ethics. In addition,
many support the Jewellery & Timepieces Industry code which
binds Jewllers to fair trading practices, ethical competition and
credible pricing.
Jade
- the hip stone

Hardness:
6.5 - 7
Variety of: calcium, magnesium and iron silicate (nephrite), sodium,
aluminum and silicate (jadeite)
Found: many locations around the world
Jade
is the overarching name for two different mineral species: nephrite
and jadeite. Until 1863, no previous distinction had been made between
them, despite the fact that they share no relation but appearance.
The jadeite variety is rarer and thus more precious and highly sought
after.
Nephrite jade is found in many places around the world, but appears
so abundantly in the Sayan Mountains in New Zealand that it is often
referred to as New Zealand jade. In contrast, jadeite is found primarily
in Myanmar with small quantities discovered in Guatemala, California
(USA), China and Russia.
Varying in colour, nephrite jade ranges from deep green as the presence
of iron over magnesium increases, to a buff colour (more magnesium
than iron). Such cream-coloured specimens are often known by the
unfortunate name of 'mutton fat' jade. Where the iron content in
nephrite jade has become oxidised, the stone comes in shades of
brown.
The word 'jade' is of Spanish origin, derived from the word piedra
de hijada, meaning 'hip stone'. When Spanish explorers brought pieces
of the mineral from their travels in India, they decided that the
stones looked like kidneys and would thus be useful in aiding diseases
of the organ. The French shortened the Spanish name to ejade.
In addition to is fabled connection with the kidneys, jade has been
assigned many other healing properties. It is said to aid in blood
purification, bone problems, chest and lung ailments, asthma and
heartburn. Purple jade with yellow specks was said to resemble a
liver penetrated with bile and was believed to heal that organ and
related bilious disorders. Dark red jade was used to stop the flow
of blood when applied to deep wounds.
The
many forms of Jasper
Hardness:
7
Variety of: Chalcedony quartz
Found: France, Germany, India, Russia,
Venezuela, Sicily, North Africa, Australia and USA
Jasper
is an unfaceted, compact variety of quartz, usually red or brown
in colour; however, differing hues and patterns can appear in the
presence of other minerals. The gem is formed in sedimentary and
metamorphic rock, making it a common and inexpensive stone found
around the world.
Of unclear origins, jasper's etymology has traces in Hebrew, Assyrian,
Greek, and Latin literature, though in ancient writings, the term
encompassed all clear and brightly coloured stones and not simply
the one variety of gemstone it represents today.
Because of its varied appearance, jasper is often named in accordance
with its pattern. Examples include the layered and colourful picture
jasper - which some claim is reminiscent of a desert landscape -
and the heavy-banded ribbon jasper.
Such is the diversity of the gemstone that different varieties can
be formed through entirely different processes. For example, picture
jasper is produced when mud drips into gas pockets in molten lava
where it is heated and then cooled to leave a layered, colourful
gemstone, while Egyptian jasper, another rare form, is a brown stone
found inside lumps of minerals that surround hard sedimentary rock.
According to popular Greek myth, a piece of jasper would ease the
pain of childbirth if tied to a woman's thigh during labour and
could prevent drowning and scorpion bites. In addition it has been
claimed the wearing jasper strengthens the stomach, cures gynecological
problems, improves one's sense of smell and soothes frayed nerves.
For all it forms, jasper has a dull, opaque lustre. As such, it
is polished and convex-cut for use in jewellery and ornamental decoration.
It is also commonly worn as beads. While the polish on jasper may
wash away in water, it is often sealed with petroleum products.
Usually cabbed, sometimes carved, and seldom faceted, whichever
the type, jasper is an easily polished gem that is trouble-free
to care for , and tough enough for all jewellery uses.
K
Kuan
Yin also
known as Quan Yin and Kwan yin, the Goddesses of Mercy and Compassion.
Her name translates as The One Who Hears the Cries of the World,
and she is the Chinese representation of the Boddhisattva Acalokiteswara.
Because of her willingness to help, Kuan - Yin is the patron saint
of barren women and protects those whose lives depend on the elements,
such as farmers and fishermen.
L
M
The
magic of Moonstone

Hardness:
6
Variety of: Silicate of potassium, aluminum and sodium
Found: Sri-Lanka, India, European Alps, America,
Australia, Tanzania, Brazil, Burma and Myanmar
Moonstone
is a crystalline mineral and a variety of the feldspar family (matter
derived from granite and other coarse rocks that form under intense
heart).
Approximately half of the Earth's crust in comprised of feldspar.
Moonstone is part of the feldspar variety called 'adularia', a silicate
of potassium, aluminum and sodium. Other gem varieties of feldspar
include labradorite, amzonite and sunstone.
Gemmologically, moonstone is very interesting because of its conclusions.
Called 'centipedes' of 'Chinese aeroplanes', these inclusions are
used as positive proof of moonstone.
The origins of moonstone's name can be traced back to varying cultures
and their similar beliefs about the stone's appearance. In Asia,
moonstones distinctive blue sheen is said to reminiscent of moonlight.
Moonstone comes in a variety of colours, yet all seem bathed in
a pale blue shimmer that appears when light is reflected onto it
from different angles. This effect is know as 'adularescence' or
'schiller' and is caused by the internal structure of the stone
that embodies two different types of feldspar, each with slightly
different refractive indexes.
Basically, when light hits the stone, it is scattered in different
directions, causing the appearance of a 'shifting' blue shimmer.
When cut properly, traditionally into a cabochon, this 'adularescence'
effect is enhanced and the moonstone reaches its full aesthetic
potential.
Some people believe that the stone balances the forces of Yin and
Yang and it is often regarded as an appropriate gift for couples,
as it is said to promote true love, passion, intuition and sensitivity
toward others.
When purchasing moonstones, you may be surprised at the great difference
in price among individual gems. This is due to the wide variation
in the stone's quality. The larger the stone, the clearer it is
and the more intense its colour, the more expensive it will be.
Highest quality moonstones are almost colourless with a bright blue
sheen.
Moonstone can be easily scratched and should be handled with caution.
N
Nickel
Allergy?
Do
you think you cannot wear gold jewellery because you develop an
allergic reaction to it? Pure gold is a noble metal and as such
is chemically stable. Problems associated with gold jewellery are
usually due to the presence of the alloying metals i.e. nickel,
silver, copper and zinc, interacting with the wearer's environment.
The
most common cause of allergic reactions to jewellery is the presence
of nickel. Nickel has frequently been used in white gold alloys
because it is inexpensive, hard and has a strong whitening effect.
Better quality white gold alloys are palladium, which has excellent
properties, avoids the skin problems but is more expensive. A condition
known as Nickel Allergy Contact Dermatitis (NACD) is on the increase
due mainly to the increased popularity of body piercing. NACD is
characterised by a range of skin symptoms from dryness, chapping
and inflammation to eczema and blisters.
With
the other alloying metals electrolysis can occur on moist salty
skin surfaces. This certainly happens with copper, its ions stain
the skin green. If silver in jewellery is oxidized or sulphides
of these metals can also darken the skin. Obviously the wearer's
environment can exacerbate these problems. Agents such as detergents,
bleach, cosmetics, swimming pools, maritime environments should
all be considered when endeavoring to understand a customer's problem.
Generally complaints are more frequent with low gold content alloys,
i.e. 9ct, and upgrading to a higher caratage usually solves all
problems.
O
P
PEARLS
Type
of Pearls
Akoya
- One of the most
familiar type of cultured pearls, they are grown in pearl oysters
off the coast of Japan. Akoya pearls are known for their lovely
orient and warm colour. They rarely grow more than 9mm in size.
Mabe
- Large hemispherical cultured pearls grown against the inside shells
of oysters instead of within the body. Less expensive then regular
round cultured pearls and, because of their hemispherical shape,
they are usually mounted in such jewellery as earrings, rings and
brooches.
Fresh
Water -
Pearls cultivated in molluscs, not oysters, found in fresh water
lakes and rivers. Fresh water pearls generally are elongated in
shape and have a milky translucent appearance. Their wide range
of interesting shapes and colours make up in fashion appeal for
their relatively low value. In China, shape and luster are rapidly
improving and round freshwater pearls are readily available.
Keshi
- Seedless pearls
which form naturally in many cultured pearl oysters in both Akoya
and South Sea pearls. They also come in a variety of colours, shapes
and sizes.
South
Sea Pearls
Australian
- Large cultured
pearls (10mm and larger) frown in large oysters (called Pinctada
Maxima) in warm waters off the Australian coast. These pearls are
found in a variety of colours including white, silver, gold and
rose. Australian South Sea pearls are generally rare and valuable.
Indonesian
- Large cultured pearls (8mm and larger) generally
smaller in size and creamier in colour than their Australian counterparts.
Tahitian
- Large cultured
pearls (10mm and larger) which are grown in large oysters (Pinctada
Margaritifera - black lipped) off the islands of French Polynesia.
Colours range from soft grey to black hues of reds, blues and greens.
Selecting
necklaces
Choose
a cultured pearl necklace for its effect on you appearance and personality.
Long necklaces are informal and versatile, while short necklaces
can be demure or sophisticated.
Choker
necklets enhance a long neck and longer strands slenderize and appear
to elongate the neck. For fair skinned women, rose-hued pearls are
most flattering, while cream and gold colour pearls set off darker
skin tones best. Here is a guide to necklace lengths and terminology:
Choker
- 35-40cm (14" - 16") in length.
Should nestle around the base of the neck in single or multiple
strands.
Princess
- 45cm (18") in length. Halfway between
a choker and matinee length.
Matinee
- 50-60cm (20" - 24") in length.
Should fall to the top of the cleavage.
Opera
- 70-80cm (28" - 32") in length.
Should fall to the breastbone.
Sautoir
or Rope
- Any pearl necklace longer than opera length.
Bib
- Multiple strands of pearls, each shorter
than the one below, nested together in one necklace.
Graduated
- A necklace comprise of pearls which taper downward in size from
large pearls in the center to smaller pearls at the ends.
Uniform
- A necklace
which appears to be comprised entirely of pearls of the same size,
though there is generally a slight difference in size between the
center and the end pearls for a more proportionate look.
Cultured
pearl care
Cultured
pearls are precious jewels and should be treated as such.
The following guidelines may assist you in caring for them.
Don't
toss them carelessly into a purse or jewel box where they may be
scratched by hard metal edges or harder stones.
Don't
wear pearls while bathing, in the shower or while playing sport.
Put
your pearls on after applying cosmetics, hairsprays and perfume.
Before
any cleaning is undertaken, seek the advise of your JAA Jeweller.
Have
your pearls restrung once a year.
Have
a knot between each pearl which will prevent loss if the string
breaks.
Q
R
Your
Ring - Where Size Matters
A
ring is the most intimate of jewels and is often worn every day.
It should fit well and feel comfortable, so here are some tips about
correctly sizing your ring.
- Measure your finger size at
the end of the day when your fingers are at their largest (like
sizing shoes).
- Don't measure finger sizes
when your hands are cold: let them warm up to room temperature.
- The width of a ring is an
important factor in determining the right finger size.
- A wider ring may require a
slightly larger size, because it covers more of your finger.
RING
SIZE CONVERSION TABLE
|
INCHES
|
MM
|
HK
|
JAP
|
USA
|
AU/UK
|
FRA
|
GER
|
SWIT
|
|
.52
|
13.21
|
3
|
2
|
2
|
D
|
41.5
|
13.25
|
1.5
|
|
.536
|
13.61
|
5
|
3
|
2.5
|
E
|
42.75
|
13.75
|
2.75
|
|
.553
|
14.05
|
6
|
4
|
3
|
F
|
44
|
14
|
4
|
|
|
|
|
5
|
|
G
|
45.25
|
|
5.25
|
|
.569
|
14.45
|
7.5
|
|
3.5
|
|
|
14.5
|
|
|
|
|
|
6.5
|
3.75
|
H
|
46.5
|
|
6.5
|
|
.585
|
14.86
|
9
|
7
|
4
|
H.5
|
|
15
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
4.25
|
I
|
47.75
|
|
7.75
|
|
.601
|
15.27
|
10
|
8
|
4.5
|
I.5
|
|
15.25
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
J
|
49
|
|
9
|
|
.618
|
15.70
|
11
|
9
|
5
|
J.5
|
|
15.75
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
K
|
50
|
|
10
|
|
.634
|
16.10
|
12
|
|
5.5
|
L
|
51.75
|
16
|
11.75
|
|
|
|
|
11
|
|
L.5
|
|
|
|
|
.650
|
16.51
|
13
|
12
|
6
|
M
|
52.75
|
16.5
|
12.75
|
|
.666
|
16.92
|
14.5
|
13
|
6.5
|
N
|
54
|
17
|
14
|
|
.683
|
17.35
|
16
|
14
|
7
|
O
|
55.25
|
17.25
|
15.25
|
|
.699
|
17.75
|
17
|
15
|
7.5
|
P
|
56.5
|
17.75
|
16.5
|
|
.716
|
18.19
|
18
|
16
|
8
|
Q
|
57.75
|
18
|
17.75
|
|
.732
|
18.59
|
19
|
17
|
8.5
|
|
|
18
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
R
|
59
|
|
19
|
|
.748
|
18.99
|
20.5
|
18
|
9
|
|
|
19
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
S
|
60.25
|
|
20.25
|
|
.764
|
19.41
|
22
|
19
|
9.5
|
|
|
19.5
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
T
|
61.5
|
|
21.5
|
|
.781
|
19.84
|
23
|
20
|
10
|
T.5
|
|
20
|
|
|
|
|
|
21
|
10.25
|
U
|
62.75
|
|
22.75
|
|
.797
|
20.24
|
24
|
22
|
10.5
|
U.5
|
|
20.25
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
V
|
63.75
|
|
23.75
|
S
Spinel
- the great imposter

Hardness:
8
Variety
of: Aluminate of magnesium
Found: Burma, Sri Lanka, Africa, Australia, Pakistan, Sweden and
Brazil
Spinel
is a form of magnesium aluminate available in a wide range of colours.
Not a particularly well-known gem, it is definitely not as popular
as any of the birthstones, but is still valuable when traded in
its ideal form - a red colour, similar to ruby.
This red colour reflects the level of chromium and iron deposits
in the gem's composition. In different amounts, these chemicals
can create any colour from a light rose to a deep red.
So vibrant are the deep red examples of spinel that it was once
considered a form of ruby and for many years, it was difficult to
differentiate between the two.
The illustrious red spinel is a product of Burma, while the deep
blue and purple examples are customary of high-quality stones in
Sri Lanka.
While the most precious gems are deep red, the purest types of spinel
are actually white.
Spinel can also be found in burnt orange, rich blue to violet hues
(characteristic of examples mined in Asia), green (so dark that
it is almost black), and in colourless forms.
The extensive palette of colours is due to how easily the stone
is manipulated by chemical impurities. This attribute has made the
gem extremely susceptible to artificial manufacture and labs regularly
generate spectacular colours by adding different chemicals. As a
result, synthetic spinel is often used to mimick birthstones, a
role that has damaged the integrity of the gem.
Its reputation as a great imposter is further enhanced by the fact
that many of the world's most famous rubies have actually proven
to be natural spinel. Indeed, at one stage, spinel was even known
as Balas Ruby.
Folklore entails that Balas rubies would afford the wearer protection
from financial and physical ruin. In some cases, the gem has been
said to improve mental powers, expanding the imagination and controlling
the thoughts of others.
Now treasured for its own sake, spinel is a favorite among gem collectors
due to its brilliance, hardness and wide range of spectacular colours.
T
Tridacna
is a kind
of rare organic precious stone, derived from deep sea especially
southern Indian Ocean. It is a treasure of Buddhism. It is said
that its white degree is the highest degree of white in the world.
U
V
W
X
Y
Z
|